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Long after the brownies are done, there's a block of 80% in the cupboard with a second career ahead of it. Cocoa as a spice, a mole-style sauce for a November evening, nib crusts and a game sauce that earns its place at the table.
Stir-Up Sunday is not just a cue to steam a pudding. It is the moment to think about what goes with it. Dark chocolate, used with a little restraint, can flatter the dried fruit, spice and booze of a proper British Christmas pudding.
A grown-up's guide to the chocolate stash: why the fridge is usually the wrong answer, how cocoa bloom happens in plain English, which dark bars improve with a little patience, and how to rescue a bar that has gone pale or crumbly.